Topsham (/ˈtɒpʃəm/, also /ˈtɒpsəm/) is a town in the Exeter district, in Devon, England, located on the east side of the River Exe, immediately north of its confluence with the River Clyst and the former's estuary, between Exeter and Exmouth. Topsham is a historic port and was designated a town by a 1300 royal charter granted by Edward I;[2] it was formally amalgamated into the City of Exeter in 1966.[3] The population of the town, recorded at the 2021 census, is 4,146.[1]
The electoral ward of Topsham extends further northwest and includes the east half of Countess Wear as well as the new suburb of Newcourt.[5] The population of the ward, recorded at the 2021 census, is 10,038.[6]
Topsham’s picturesque setting, range of independent shops, and lively community life makes it is one of the most desirable places to live in the South West of England.[7][8]
The site of Topsham originated as a Celtic settlement and became the port of the Roman city of Isca Dumnoniorum (Exeter) in the 1st century AD.[9] It continued in this role until the end of Roman rule in southern Britain in the early 5th century. During the 7th century, under Saxon control in East Devon, the settlement developed into a substantial village.[10]
St Margaret's Church dates from the 10th century and occupies land granted in 937 by King Æthelstan to the monastery of St Mary and St Peter in Exeter. The charter records the gift of "a parcel of land, i.e. a manse, which the vulgar called Toppesham", to be held in perpetuity.[11] Although the building has been reconstructed several times, it remains on its original site.[12]
Topsham was granted a royal charter in August 1300, permitting a weekly market and annual fair.[14][citation needed] This charter is commemorated by the town’s modern Charter Day festival.[2]
In 1603, the manor formed part of the jointure lands granted to Anne of Denmark, consort of James VI and I, who held admiralty rights at the port.[15] In July 1606, a cargo of tobacco from Venezuela, shipped via Trinidad in the Delight, was unloaded at Topsham; following the death of its owner en route to Exeter, ownership of the cargo passed to the queen.[16]
The town was the site of a Parliamentarian naval assault during the English Civil War.[17]
Maritime prosperity and built environment
Owing to its sheltered position on the River Exe, Topsham developed into a significant port, with activities including fishing, shipbuilding, and overseas trade. During the 17th and 18th centuries it became particularly associated with the wool and cotton trade with the Netherlands.[18]
Many houses in the town were constructed using imported Dutch brick used as ballast, and feature architectural elements such as Dutch gables.[19]
Infrastructure development included the completion in 1977 of the final section of the M5 motorway, which passes along the western edge of the town and crosses the River Exe.[25]
In the 21st century, development has taken place in the 'Topsham Gap', an area of greenfield land between Topsham and Exeter. The population increased from 3,545 in 2001 to 3,730 in 2011 and 4,146 in 2021.[1]
Topsham Museum is located in one of a set of 17th century buildings looking out over the Exe Estuary. It consists of furnished period rooms, displays of the local history of the town and memorabilia of Vivien Leigh, the film star.[26]
In 2021, the Sunday Times national newspaper named Topsham "one of the best places to live".[27]
National Cycle Route 2 passes through the town. In November 2013, a new bridge opened that forms part of a new route for cyclists and pedestrians which crosses the River Clyst and connects the town with Ebford and Exton.[28]
Name and pronunciation
Topsham, the River Exe and Exeter Canal, looking south
The name is an Anglo-Saxon one, and means Toppa's village, Toppa having been the local landowner.[29]
There are two pronunciations of the town's name. Generally it is referred to as /ˈtɒpʃəm/ with the sh sounded as in shoe. The local pronunciation, especially amongst older residents, is /ˈtɒpsəm/ with an s rather than sh sound.
Topsham's local football club is Topsham Town FC, a non-league side playing in the Devon Football League.
Topsham Rugby Club has two men's senior sides, one women's senior side and over 200 juniors making it one of the largest "junior" clubs in the South West.[citation needed] Topsham's men's team secured promotion in the 21/22 season before following it up a year later winning the league to be promoted again. This coupled with winning the Devon Intermediate Cup by beating Tiverton helped the club record its best ever season.
The town also has a bowling club, an outdoor swimming pool, a cricket club (Topsham St. James CC) and a sailing club.
Community and recreation
The Bridge Inn, by the River Clyst, which flows by the east side of Topsham
One of the main focal points of the town is Topsham Pool.[30] Topsham Pool is a community run project in the centre of the town. It was funded by a large fundraising exercise in the 1970s which included collecting waste paper and glass bottles, jumble sales and donations. A Sports Council grant completed the fund raising effort and, in 1979, the pool was opened by Olympic gold medallist swimmer David Wilkie.[31] Topsham Pool is an open-air pool and, as a result, is only open between May and September. Between 6am and 8.30am each morning, the Pool welcomes the Nutters Club – a group that swims when the outside temperature is likely to be at its coolest.[32]
In response to what had been described in the early 1960s as "a period of genteel decline", The Topsham Society was formed. The objectives of the Topsham Society are "To promote high standards of planning and architecture in or affecting Topsham; to educate the public in the geography, history, natural history and architecture of Topsham; to secure the preservation protection development and improvement of features of historic or public interest in Topsham".[33] The Society currently has around 400 members.[34]
In addition to St Margaret's Anglican church, there is also a Methodist church situated in Fore Street, a Congregational Church situated in Victoria Road, and a Roman Catholic church, dedicated to the Holy Cross, which meets in Station Road.
A monthly magazine is published called Estuary: A Monthly Community Magazine for Topsham, which is published by St Margaret's Anglican Church, but is more of a community publication than an ecclesiastical one. It is currently priced £2 per month, and a copy is to be received by the 15th of the preceding month. It is co-edited by Diana Trout and José Northey.
The River Exe at Topsham – in the background is the M5 bridge. A ferry takes passengers to the other side, where there is the Exeter Canal
There is a community centre called the Matthews Hall located in the centre of the town, provided by the Topsham Community Association.[38] Local groups can use this facility, and these include the Topsham Film Club and the Topsham Flower Club. Twice a year, Estuary Players present a theatrical production in the Matthews Hall. They are a notably eclectic group, but Shakespeare and Brecht have featured among their favourite playwrights over their 35-year existence.[39] The Community Association also run a Saturday market, held at the Matthews Hall, and appoint the town crier.[40]
Topsham Art Group had a summer exhibition in 2012 at The Topsham School featuring local artists.
2011 marked the 80th anniversary of the Topsham Town Fayre and Carnival.[41] As of 2018 there is no longer a Carnival. Every two years, the town holds a Longest Table event, which involves tables being placed end to end through the streets with people bringing food for their own table.
The Estuary League of Friends charity supports elderly people in the local community.[42]
Tryphena Sparks (1851–1890), cousin of Thomas Hardy, lived in Topsham and is buried there; she is associated with Hardy’s poem Thoughts of Phena at News of Her Death.[44]
Francis William Locke Ross (1793–1860), Royal Navy officer and antiquarian, lived at Broadway House in Topsham and assembled a significant collection of artefacts later transferred to Exeter museums.[45]
↑BBC NewsDevon Exe Trail nearer with bridge opening (15 November 2013)
↑"Discover Exeter – Local Towns". Discovery Exeter. Discovery Travel Network Limited. Archived from the original on 24 October 2011. Retrieved 6 December 2011.
