Duckanoo originated in the Caribbean, and is closely related to the Mesoamericantamale de dulce or tamal dulce ('sweet tamale'),[4] a popular indigenous dessert in the Americas, especially in Mexico.[9] It is the sweet variation of the more popular savoury tamale, which may date from around 100 AD, according to archaeologists Karl Taube, William Saturno, and David Stuart. The dish was adapted and influenced by West Africans who were brought to the Americas during slavery and indentureship— particularly the Maroons and Garifunas,[4][10] who intermingled with the Amerindians.
In Belize, the dish is rooted in Mayan and African traditions.[3]Corn and sweet potato, which are native to the Americas, were staples of Mesoamericans, and the indigenous Amerindians, the Arawaks, cultivated them in the Caribbean,[11][12] which could explain their use as key ingredients.[2][13]
"Blue drawers" in banana leaf
Etymology
In Ghana, there is a dish known as dokono or Odokono in the Twi language,[14] which is made from fermented corn dough. Though this dish is different from the Caribbean dessert, variations of its name have been adopted regionally.[15][16]
The name "blue drawers" comes from the bluish-green hue that banana leaves may take on after being boiled.[17] In Jamaican Patois, the word "drawers" (pronounced /draaz/) means "underwear",[16] referencing the tied banana leaf wrapping, which resembles old-fashioned, string-tied underwear. In some parishes, particularly Portland, the dish is sometimes called "bollo/boyo" derived from Cuban Spanish, meaning "bun"— a roll of dough (corn, cassava, sweet potato or plantain), seasoned and baked or boiled.[16]
In Jamaica, it is common to add grated green banana, coconut, sweet potato and/or cornmeal with coconut milk, brown sugar, mixed spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and anise) and vanilla— raisins are optional.[22] It can be served with an orange sauce.[23]Blue drawers or tie-a-leaf is eaten as a dessert or snack, but is typically seen at cultural or heritage celebrations.[24]
Doukounou is considered to be a sweet or savoury dish eaten as a breakfast or dessert, in Haiti. It is made with cornmeal, milk, sugar, cinnamon, raisins, vanilla extract and eggs, and is served with a sweet sauce.[25]
There is a similar dish of Taíno origin called guanime dulce in Puerto Rico,[2] which is prepared with cornmeal or corn flour, coconut milk and sugar/honey or molasses.[26] It can also include ripe plantain, raisins, vanilla and anise.[27]
In Belize, the dish is called dukunu, tamalito or ducunu[3] which is said to be the Garifuna word for 'boiled corn'.[10] Traditionally, it is often sold by street vendors on bicycles.[3]
It includes cornmeal, sweet corn, sugar, butter, baking powder and coconut milk.[28]
Latin America
Tamales dulces in La Morita, Nuevo León, MéxicoTamal de elote with cream
Tamales verdes (salado y dulce)— green tamales (salty and sweet)Guatemalantamal de cambray
Similarly, in Guatemala, tamales or tamalitos de elote are made with corn instead of masa, brown sugar, cinnamon, vanilla and/or cheese, cream and raisins.[34]Tamal de cambray is another traditional dessert usually prepared for special occasions and Christmas. It is made with raisins, almonds or prunes, pink sugar or colouring, margarine and masa with cinnamon or anise water.[35]Tamalito is also made in Honduras, and it is a popular street food.[36] Ingredients include corn, sugar, salt and milk, with butter and/or cheese.[37]
Nicaraguansweet tamale or yoltamal can be made with masa, corn, evaporated milk, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla and fruits/fruit preserves.[38][39] It is served with cream/crème fraîche or queso fresco.[40]
In Costa Rica, a variation called tamal dulce de elote or tamalitos de elote[41] is made, usually for Christmas or Holy Week (Semana Santa). Ingredients include corn (grated or ground) or masa, sugar, butter/margarine, cream, flour, vanilla and/or cheese. The mixture is wrapped in banana/plantain leaves or corn husks, and then baked.[42]
Pamonhas, traditional indigenous Brazilian dessert being boiled
In Brazil, pamonhas[43] are made with grated or ground corn, sugar, coconut milk, butter, cinnamon and/or coconut, and then boiled in corn husks or banana leaves. They are indigenous to the northeastern region,[44] and can be found in Minas Gerais, Goiás, Mato Grosso, Rondônia, São Paulo, Paraná and Tocantins. In some regions, the dish resembles a corn cake wrapped in banana leaves, later dissolved in sugar and water when served, hence the name garapa de pamonha. Pamonhas are widely consumed during Festas Juninas, a festival which coincides with Brazil's harvest of corn and the end of the rainy season.[44] They are sold in shops or by street vendors as a sweet snack or dessert. The name "pamonha" comes from the indigenous Tupi-Guarani word pa'muna meaning 'sticky',[44] which might describe the dish's consistency.
Bollo de Mazorca. There are many types of sweet bollos (envueltos) made with similar ingredients to duckunoo
There are many other variations of sweet tamales, humitas (humintas) or bollos (envueltos), similar to
duckunoo and the other regional variations mentioned, which are made in Panama, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and Colombia. In the central Andes region, sweet humitas[45] are made with fresh corn, butter, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, evaporated milk, anise and raisins.[46] They are wrapped in corn husks and can be cooked in boiling water, in a pachamanca oven, or steamed.
Bollos[47] can be made with masa, cornmeal, plantain, batata (sweet potato) or cassava/yuca.[48][49][50][51][52] They are boiled in corn husks, sugarcane leaves or banana leaves. Depending on the type, other ingredients may include coconut, pumpkin, sugar, honey, vanilla, cheese, panela, anise, cinnamon, milk and/or banana (ripe or green).
123Cassidy, Frederic Gomes; Robert Brock Le Page (2002). A Dictionary of Jamaican English (2nded.). University of the West Indies Press. ISBN976-640-127-6.
↑Sylvia Reynoso, UCCE Master Food Preserver of El Dorado County (14 July 2021). "Pre-Columbian Uchepos for Modern Day Eating"(PDF). University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources. Retrieved 12 February 2025.